Thursday, June 23, 2005

An Ode To an Oddly Named Mexican Restaurant

Glasgow's Mexican Cafe, Bentonville, Ark.
Decor like your grandpa's favorite hole-in-the-wall Mexican joint: figured glass chandiliers, stuffed swordfish, sombreros and oil paintings on the wall, red tablecloth and carpet to hide the inevitable salsa spills. This tiny place seast about 100 and doesn't accept reservations. The portions are large, the food good, solid fare. A big tamale that doesn't suffer from the blandness some larger specimens sometimes exhibit. The service is a bit spotty and the place seems a little understaffed, but it tolerates kids well and that can be a boon. An occasional plume floats over from the cancer ward, but this old building was not built with segregation in mind. All in all, a singular experience that, while not authentically Mexican like the Mexican-owned restaurants in the area, a good interpretation of the cuisine.

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